Kota lehenga

This light and airy lehenga speak a great deal of comfort and are definitely summer friendly. Kota work, also known as Kota Doriya is the name of a light weight fabric made of tiny woven squares. Lehengas made of this fabric are called kota lehenga. Cotton and Silk are weaved in such a way that they form check patterns on the fabric. This fabric is slightly translucent, hence it is lightweight. The fabric of this lehenga is a unique blend of two most favourite fabrics for women – Cotton and Silk. This Lehenga has the softness and comfort of cotton, and the luster of silk.

Bandhej Kota Silk Lehenga in Pink and Orange : LJN1481

Origin of Kota Doria

It is believed that kota fabric originated in the 17th century. It was Mysore, in Karnataka region, where the art of Kota Doria was first invented. There, artisans who practiced this were referred to as “Masurias’. And it was during Mughal era, when these Masurias were brought to the town of Kota by Rao Kishore Singh, a general in the army of Mughal king Shahjahan because making of this fabric was extremely tedious and complex and only the most skilled artisans of that time could make this fabric. It was later on given the name ’Kota-masurias’ which was then replaced by Kota Doria. Kota Doria fabric takes its name from a small town of Rajasthan, Kota, where artisans have been practicing this craft for generations. Hence kota is the name of the place and doria means thread.

This fabric came out to be so divine that it was even considered auspicious at that time. The Rajasthan royalties were so in love with this fabric that they used it for all religious occasions and also made it a symbol of Royalty. At that time, Kota Doria was only made in two basic colors- white and beige. But as the technology advanced, Kota Doria was seen in a plethora of colors. Also, it was initially made out of Cotton only, but to make it more transparent and fine, silk was added in the weaving of Kota Doria.


There are various steps involved in the making of kota fabrics. They are winding, warping, dyeing,sizing,drafting, weaving and designing. The raw materials required for making Kota include warping paste, silk yarn and cotton yarn. You will be surprised that Onion and water go into making the arping paste, which is unique to the Kota region. Silk yarn and fine count cotton yarn are used for weaving the fabric.

Kota Doria - Characteristics, Process, Popularity & Challenges -

At first Winding takes place. It is the process of transferring yarn from these hanks on to bobbin for warp and on pirn for weft. Now, warping is done, which is the process of obtaining a predetermined length of warp having desired number of threads that shall be needed for the complete width of the fabric. The yarns are dyed  manually by dipping them in utensils filled with heated water and pre-dissolved dyes. This step is followed by sizing. Sizing is done in order to impart strength to the yarn and is required mainly in cotton. A thin rice paste (‘maandi’) and juice of locally available wild onion is used for this purpose. Post this process, drafting or piecing process takes place, where all individual cotton and silk threads are drafted through double clasped country cotton heald (‘Ranch’) and dented through dents of bamboo/ steel reed (‘Fani’) in a particular pattern to produce the checks or ‘khat’ along with the weft. Since drafting and denting of individual threads is time-consuming, an alternative method called piecing is used in which the individual new threads of the warp are tied to the corresponding threads of the previous leftover warp. Weaving is done on the pit looms by throw shuttle technique. It is done so skillfully that almost uniform size of the ‘khat’ or the check pattern is produced.The designs to be produced are first made on graph paper and then transferred to the fabric through various techniques.

Rajasthan - Kota-doria - Fine Crafting Of Kota Doria | strandofsilk.com

Kotta Lehenga – Comfort and sheer

Initially only sarees and dupattas were made of kota fabric. But now fashion designers have taken this to great heights and have made designer lehengas with this fabric and sooner it became the love of many. Kota lehengas can be plain with just ethnic prints of motifs like paisley, elephants, temples, leaves  or floral prints in bright colours.  These lehengas can also be embellished with crystals and stone. Embroideries like aari, zardozi, kota patti, zari and even simplistic chikankari work can be done. 

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Occasions to flaunt chanderi lehenga

Depending upon the type of embellishments ,these lehengas can be worn to various occasions. Simple Kota work lehenga are perfect for special occasions like mehendi functions and beach side parties. Since these lehengas are airy and extremely light, they can be worn to beach side engagement ceremonies and they even work as a great even wedding guest dress. They work as great bridesmaid lehengas as well, since bridesmaid dresses need to be minimalistic and kept low key compared to the bride’s lehenga. Simple pastel toned kota lehenga with floral prints will look gorgeous for your lovely bridesmaid ladies out there. Kota lehenga with crystals and stone work could look dashing and dazzling for a night party for some dance and fun.

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Kota bridal lehenga

Brides would opt for the sheer, gorgeous silk kota lehenga with exquisite embroideries to adorn their special day. Mainly it’s because brides these days are not into heavy lehengas and often look out for alternatives but at the same time wanting to keep the tradition going.Hence lehengas like the kota lehenga come to the picture. Brides these days just absolutely adore them. Since they are light, they do not hold back from dancing on their big day and have great fun just twirling to the Bollywood songs. Usually these lehengas are embellished with heavy zardosi and aari work and since the skirt is light, choosing a choli that is of a different fabric would look phenomenal.

Kota Doria Lehenga | Indian bridal wear, Floral lehenga, Designer dresses  indian


Since it’s got the sheerness of the silk work, these lehenga go great with gold jewellery. For light colours and pastel colour lehengas, wear silver or metal jewellery that are  ethnic or ones with a modern twist .If you love to incorporate some drama  in your style,go for  huge earrings, ear cuffs or danglers, jewellery,and traditional makeup accessories like bindhi, jhumka and maang tikka . Adorn yourself with jasmine flowers going around a neat hair bun or just a gajra will do. This look is sure to make heads turn as it would look super desi like a Bollywood queen. Adorn yourself with jewellery that complements the softness of these lehengas.


With the busy routine and active lifestyle, people always run out of time. They always prefer the thing that is not a time-consuming process. Well kota lehengas can make it so much easier for you as maintaining them takes less effort. Use a mild detergent and dip the fabric in cold water. Avoid rubbing the fabric rigorously, instead rinse it gently. Due to its lightweight, these fabrics are delicate and should not be weighed down with other clothes.

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